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Product Details

• Amazon Sales Rank: #14127 in Automotive
• Brand: Curt
• Model: 56146

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Customer Reviews

Most helpful customer reviews

2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Works well for any vehicle with "four-wire" lighting fixtures
By Mark Cappel
There is one catch to installing this device, which I'll get to in a moment. Installed in a 2000 Mercedes ML 430, which uses what is called "four-wire" lighting found in many non-US vehicles. This device converts four inputs (left turn, right turn, running lights, and brakes) into what US trailers expect, which is left signal/brake, right signal/brake and running lights. It needs a connection to the battery to power the lights.

Installing in the 2000 ML was time consuming because of time spent figuring out where to tap into the existing wiring, where to hide the converter box, and how to run the wiring to a positive circuit. I installed the device inside the vehicle inside of the access panel for the fuel filler. The wires for the driver's side rear light fixture are inside that access panel, too. I ran three wires under the plastic fascia at the tailgate (inside the vehicle) to the passenger side of the vehicle. One wire went to the right turn signal (tapped i nto that next to the tire jack) and the other two went to the positive and negative found on the accessory 12-volt outlet in the cargo area. The accessory outlet is rated at 15 amps, which is much more than necessary to run trailer lighting.

I tested everything using an ohmmeter, which is the catch I mentioned at the top. Once all of the wiring was assembled loosely, I checked the three-wire plug to see if I had wired the device correctly. It registered positive voltage on all three wires with no lights on! I double and triple-checked everything. All of my connections were to the correct wires. Good ground. No reversed polarity. Did I recieve a bad unit? Then I noticed the instructions specified testing with a test-lamp and not an ohmmeter. Was the device sending a tiny amount of amperage to each circuit? I tested the three-wire plug with a bulb, and sure enough, each circuit was working correctly. Moral of the story: When you do your final check, do it with a 12- volt bulb and not a multimeter.

How much time it takes you to install this depends on your vehicle and how carefully you complete your electrical work. If you're a careful, pedantic worker who uses a soldering iron instead of crimp connectors, expect to spend several hours installing this device.

0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Works on my Caddy
By M. Wendel
I installed a hitch on my 2000 Cadillac Deville. I needed the light kit. There was confusion about whether this would work or not, but I decided to try it. The online sites did not list my car, but one hitch store included this with the hitch for my car, so I ordered this from Amazon. The instructions could be better, but I found a video online for installing a competitive converter in a 2000 caddy. This helped. It works great.
This requires a connection to the battery. I went to my local auto parts store and purchased a special adapter that takes a fuse slot (in fuse box under rear seat) and converts it to 2 fuses (one for the original and one fuse for a pigtail wire). This allowed me to hook it up without cutting any existing wiring or overloading and existing fuse circuit.

0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Bought to replace same one
By TJK
I had one installed on my Sprinter van, worked great till I plugged in my powered trailer (12V battery wired into trailer lights) forgetting to unplug the battery 1st (thx superstorm sandy) and fired the SMD. Frankly, didn't think it should have fried it and blown the fuse instead, but it fried and gonna replace it with the same unit.